Mont Chauve is the hidden mountain of Nice. It’s right there, perched just north of the city and clearly visible, yet it often goes unnoticed. Who ventures up here?

Local mountain bikers know its trails well, and on weekends, Nice residents come to walk their dogs along the paths. But road cyclists? Most of them bypass it entirely. Many don’t even realize there’s a road leading up, leaving the mountain a well-kept secret for locals to enjoy.

The name “Mont Chauve” means “the bald mountain,” a nod to its treeless peak. It’s like a smaller, Niçois sibling to the famous Mont Ventoux in Provence. While it lacks the towering stature of the Giant of Provence, Mont Chauve offers something unique: two distinct peaks—Mont Chauve de Tourette (785m) and Mont Chauve d’Aspremont (853m).

The main road winds its way toward Mont Chauve d’Aspremont. While the climb is often said to begin about 5 kilometers outside the village of Falicon—perched high between the Var and Paillon rivers—the mountain’s true charm lies in its accessibility. From central Nice, countless roads can lead you to this quiet escape, making it a favorite among those who seek solitude on two wheels..

Before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a vital lifeline for the people of Breil-sur-Roya. It was their sole connection to the rest of France.

To the north lay Tenda, an Italian town surrounded by dense forests that served as the Italian king’s prized hunting grounds. To the south, along the rushing waters of the Roya River, were two small French settlements, with another border post marking the edge of Italy beyond. Breil-sur-Roya was isolated, hemmed in by steep rock walls and enemy territory.

Strategically positioned soldiers took shelter here, prepared to fire upon advancing armies or mobilize to defend the critical pass.

The climb from Sospel begins gently, winding through open meadows in the Bevera River valley. It continues upward through dramatic but never too narrow gorges, eventually emerging into wide, open fields at the top. The elevation of 879 meters feels like the gateway to the northern Alps.

The pass remains accessible year-round, attracting dedicated local cyclists who train here even in winter. At the summit, the auberge offers a well-deserved treat—what many consider the best brownie in France, if not the world.

High above Èze, nestled among the pines, lies the Fort de la Revère. Built in the 19th century to defend against a potential Italian invasion, the fort commands stunning vistas of the Mediterranean and the snowy peaks of the Alpes-Maritimes in the distance.

Connecting Èze village and the fort is the Route de la Grande Corniche, the highest of the three scenic corniche roads winding from Nice toward Monaco and Italy. Starting near the village café, the road climbs steeply, weaving past villas and palm trees, ascending through the hills to a height of 507 meters.

Sean Kelly dominated the Paris-Nice race, winning it seven consecutive times from 1982 to 1988. Each year, the race concluded with a time trial from Nice to the Col, and in five of those seven years, Kelly triumphed, clinching both the stage and the overall victory near this very car park.

Though Kelly’s course record of 19 minutes and 45 seconds was eventually surpassed by riders like Bradley Wiggins in 2012 and Richie Porte, the climb still belongs to him in spirit. As you ascend, leaving behind the noise and bustle of Nice, think of Kelly—the Irishman who once ruled the Côte d’Azur—and challenge yourself to finish in under half an hour.

Renowned as a training hill, the precise starting point for the pros’ battle against the clock on the ‘classic’ route remains a topic of debate. For those unconcerned with power meters and heart rate stats, the ‘beach’ start is often the preferred option.

The final 5 kilometres of the climb are marked by untamed beauty, where herds of goats often obstruct the road, usually after passing through three tunnels carved into the rock.

Approaching the summit, the western peak’s antenna signals the last 200 meters of elevation gain, and a small, abandoned hut following a sharp left turn marks the beginning of the final kilometre.

For elite cyclists like Froome and Porte, this climb has become a proving ground, continuing the legacy of Armstrong and Rominger. Porte notably broke the 30-minute barrier prior to the 2013 Tour de France. For most of us, completing the climb in under twice that time from the beach start is an achievement.

Regardless of the time, reaching the summit rewards riders with breath taking views toward Peille and the higher mountains. Madone serves as a gateway col, opening up a myriad of climbs and routes across the Alpes Maritimes.

The dense forests of the Col de Turini embody the unpredictable weather typical of this highest coastal climb from Nice. Even near the summit, at 1,604 meters, glimpses of the sea remain visible, and warm, humid maritime air often drifts inland to collide with the mountain, resulting in frequent downpours on its slopes.

Numerous trails and roads weave through its wooded expanse.

For cyclists, the Col de Turini offers a labyrinth of routes. The main ascents begin in L’Escarène, the closest approach from Nice, and in Sospel and Lantosque. However, detours through Col Saint Roch or the dirt roads to Le Moulinet also lead to the summit. The intricate network of paths hints at the pass’s historical significance—a purpose now largely obscured but evident in the heights above.

Unlike many Alpine cols, Turini is not the area’s highest road. Climbing beyond the pass reveals a small ski resort and, further up, the peaks and plateaus of the Authion Massif, culminating at 2,082 meters. This rugged terrain, marked by ruined forts and bunkers, was once a strategic stronghold. Overlooking the Italian border, multiple river valleys, and the Col de Tende—a critical pass on the ancient salt route to Turin—it held tremendous military value.

The eastern ascent of Turini gained fame as part of the Monte Carlo Rally, with its legendary night stage illuminating the snow-covered forests each winter. It has also hosted remarkable night time cycling. In 2001, five English cyclists on a charity ride from Geneva to Cannes found themselves atop Turini after dark, utterly fatigued but unable to safely navigate the descent in the pitch black.

At that moment, thousands of fireflies, drawn to the lingering warmth of the tarmac, illuminated their path, guiding them safely down the mountain.

This extraordinary event inspired the Fireflies Tour, an annual ride that has since raised millions for leukemia charities and continues to pass through the Col de Turini each year.

Don’t be too quick to believe the claims on the signs along the Bonette climb, whether starting from Jausiers in the north or Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée in the south, which proudly declare it the highest paved road in Europe. While impressive, there are actually higher tarmac roads elsewhere. It holds the title of the highest inter-valley road in Europe (a high-altitude route that truly connects places) only if you consider the loop around the Cime de la Bonette summit (2,802 m) a legitimate part of the climb.

Instead, let yourself be captivated by the journey itself. Follow the Tinée River as it transitions from a serene flow to a breath taking waterfall feeding a high-altitude valley. The scenery rivals the beauty of the northern Alps. Take in the alpine meadows dotted with delicate daisies, their white petals blooming briefly after the snow recedes, against the vibrant, acid-green backdrop of early summer.

Pause at the summit—a steep, dark pyramid with gruelling 15% gradients that will leave you breathless—and ascend to the very peak. At 2,859 m, the panorama unfolds like a masterpiece.

Marvel at the ruins of grand forts, remnants of a time when this road was a strategic lifeline. Imagine the soldiers’ winter hardships, building makeshift corridors beneath snow-laden roofs and hauling supplies from Bousiéyas, the hamlet nestled just below.

The Bonette road is steeped in history. Constructed under Napoleon III after the cession of Nice and its surroundings from Italy to France in 1860, it was designed as a protective route for the Mediterranean jewel. The stark concrete remnants of World War II defenses along the pass are a poignant reminder of human ambition and the transient nature of our efforts against the enduring life of the mountains.

In the end, you’ll realize that the Col de la Bonette is more than just a climb. It’s an experience of sublime beauty and history, where the immense altitude allows you to linger longer in the charm of this extraordinary pass.

Among the climbs we tackle from Nice, Vence stands out as the driest, dustiest, and most exposed. It’s the westernmost of our favourite ascents, sitting furthest from the spine of the Alps, that majestic divider of nations and clouds between France and Italy.

At 962 meters above sea level, the Col de Vence rises above the vibrant town of Vence. During the final stretch, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of the Mediterranean, stretching from Italy to Cannes and beyond.

This openness makes it a beloved winter climb, offering sunny ascents and descents even on cooler days. In summer, however, the intense heat can feel overwhelming, so be sure to refill your water bottles at the fountain marking the climb’s official start on Vence’s outskirts.

Legend has it that Alberto Contador conquered this 9.6-kilometer ascent—rising 630 meters at an average gradient of 6%—in under 24 minutes. For most riders, completing it in under 35 minutes is an achievement worth celebrating.

Beyond the summit lies the Plateau de Saint Barnabé. For Ironman Nice Triathlon competitors, this marks the final stretch. After one more climb, the road descends dramatically toward the Esteron Valley, eventually winding back to the Var and the finish line along the Promenade des Anglais in Nice.

For those cycling at a more leisurely pace, the plateau unveils a serene landscape of sun-soaked farms and hilltop villages, many with charming cafés that invite you to pause and take in the views. Alternatively, the lower slopes hold a rich artistic history.

In the 20th century, this region became a haven for artists. The nearby village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence is home to the famed La Colombe d’Or restaurant, where artists once traded their works for meals. Today, its dining room is a treasure trove of masterpieces by Picasso, Matisse, Calder, Braque, Miró, and Chagall. Dining in Lycra, however, is strongly discouraged.

About 2 km from the summit of the Col de Braus, the road steepens to a 15% gradient. A slight bend to the right marks a perfect moment to lift your gaze from the handlebars and take in the breath taking view of the valley below. A small stone wall offers a spot to rest, catch your breath, and capture a photo of the winding road you’ve just climbed.

The Col de Braus holds a special place in cycling history, as it’s where René Vietto, one of the sport’s greatest climbers, secured his first professional victory. Born in Cannes, René worked in local casinos as a child. He saved his tips to buy his first bicycle and began training. In 1931, he won the Boucle de Sospel, breaking away on the Col de Braus in an unstoppable attack.

Three years later, during the Tour de France—a race that climbed the Col de Braus 27 times, most recently in 1961—René repeated his daring escape and won the stage in Cannes. The ecstatic crowd included an overzealous supporter who mistakenly struck Jacques Goddet, assistant to the Tour director, believing he was hindering René’s progress.

The climb speaks to anyone who has ever paused to appreciate the journey as much as the destination. The road is typically quiet, and the weather in this valley is often sunnier and milder than further inland. Locals frequent the area for hunting, and there’s even a hidden swimming spot beneath the road. On clear winter days, you can see all the way to the sea.

Take your time ascending the pass to admire the surrounding olive groves and the remnants of the ancient Royal Road—a historic salt route connecting Nice to Piedmont and the Dukes of Savoy to Turin. Once, the summit of the pass hosted an inn and military barracks during France’s revolutionary wars in the 18th century, when the border with Italy lay nearby. In the Second World War, the area saw quieter times, serving as the site of a hospital for wounded soldiers.